There was a point a few years back where we’d walk or bike down the road early on a Sunday morning to buy a bunch of dishes to enjoy for Sunday brunch. Right near the supermarket, two different families set up a tent and do a bustling business as the sun rises over Tahiti. Think BBQ pork, doughnuts, savoury plates and desserts.
It’s not just down the road from our house; there’s a long-standing culture here where families will set up stands on the side of the road from very early in the morning and sell dishes to take home for a Sunday lunch with your loved ones. The dishes are often local specialties and can be a great way to sample the local cuisine.
There are also those that sell snacks throughout the week. If you keep your eyes peeled as you drive around the island for handwritten signs, and always have some cash on you, you can pick up some very tasty treats.
Here are a few of my favourites that I’ve sampled over the last few years:
Firi-firi
This figure-8 shaped coconut water doughnut is a deep-fried delight. Paired with a coffee, eaten either plain or slathered with some butter and jam for variety, it’s a nice breakfast treat.
Po’e
Po’e is a gelatinous Tahitian dessert made with tapioca plus local fruit or vegetables (such as pumpkin, banana, or mango), and then drowned in fresh coconut milk. It’s rich and delicious and one of my favourites!
Poisson cru lait coco
You can’t visit the Tahitian islands and not try a raw fish in coconut milk. It’s a staple of life. They’ll serve this at pretty much every restaurant on the island, but a stand set up on a Sunday will often have a pretty good and inexpensive version.
Poulet fafa
AKA chicken and taro leaves, which taste and look a bit like spinach. Hearty and very tasty. Sometimes you can find fafa cooked by itself which I also really like.
Mape
Known as the Tahitian chestnut, you’ll see mape signs dotted around the island. Apparently cooking and peeling these is a bit of a time-intensive task, so getting a bag full of mape for 300xpf feels like a good bargain. A very filling on-the-go snack!
Taioro
This dish is fermented shredded coconut, often served with raw pahua (giant clams). Despite being made from sweet coconut flesh, it has a savoury-salty flavour. If you like fermented foods, you’ll like this.
Pua’a choux
AKA pork and cabbage, this one has a bit of a Chinese influence. It can be a little rich for my tastes sometimes but well worth a try with pork that melts in the mouth.
What else can I buy on the side of the road?
Keep an eye out for fresh fish sold by the local fishermen, fruits and vegetables, even roast chicken!
It’s great to support local when you can, and you can often get a good deal going direct.
What snacks have I missed? Any other ‘must-try’ dishes from French Polynesia?
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Yummy ♥️
Yes the poisson cru and we had the pork one as well