Papeete, the big smoke.
It's hot. It's crowded. It's the city.
We went to Papeete the other day and it’s a bit much for me these days. I’m always a bit relieved to get back to quiet Mo’orea and the nice breeze that comes off the lagoon.
It’s a funny city. The buildings are all a bit old and out of date, there aren’t enough trees, and the traffic is hectic. However, it has it’s own chaotic charm (that I can take in small doses!).
I used to go regularly for French lessons and I’d come back every week absolutely exhausted (and in need of a shower). I’d take the first ferry over with Emile (who commutes every day for work), we’d have breakfast together, then I’d have time to kill so I’d wonder around and sketch things.
I’d get people coming up to chat to me in my terrible French when they saw me with my sketchbook open. While not every building is a work of art, there’s a beauty to be found in the every day interactions of people just going about their day to day.
Here are some of the sketches I’ve made over various visits:
Visiting Papeete? Here are some things to do:
EAT
City D’Or - we go back to this restaurant very regularly because it’s delicious. Try the garlic prawns!
Les Rêves de Lucie - a beautiful patisserie, if expensive.
Restaurant Jimmy - another Asian restaurant, with an excellent green curry.
DRINK
Reeftop - I’ve previously written about happy hour specials, and Reeftop really has an incomparable view while you enjoy a tipple.
Les 3 Brasseurs - the German-style wheat beer was a delight.
Brasserie Hoa - I haven’t been here yet but it’s on the list!
STAY
Fare Suisse - if you’re going to stay somewhere overnight, this is a beautiful option with a lovely outlook from the top of a hill. The breakfast is delicious (homemade breads, cakes, and cold cuts) and I’m super keen to try the fondue.
Kon Tiki - if you’re not claustrophobic (the cabins are teeny tiny) and want something close to the quay.
BUY
Papeete Market - pick up all things souvenirs, such as sarongs, hats, bags, pearls, vanilla, monoï. There are also food vendors selling everything from salted green mango slices to poisson cru to Nutella crêpes.
Art’Griculture - local artisan market in a little shopping centre. Good for gifts and supporting local makers!
Tara - local clothes brand with Polynesian motifs.
WANDER
Paofai Gardens - right on the water, a nice spot to waste some time.
Bougainville Park - big old trees and a charming little fish pond.
Papeete Cathedral - for quiet contemplation of the big questions in life while looking at the beautiful stained glass windows.
Reading, watching, thinking about…
Nick Cave just has such a way with words.
Some years ago, the winter after Arthur died, I was walking along an empty beach in Brighton and had the sudden impulse to jump into the sea. I was shocked to find that, upon entering the freezing water, I experienced a sudden, violent, radical rearrangement of my relationship with almost everything. I discovered that it was simply impossible to grieve in icy water. This revelation began my love affair with cold-water swimming.
Le Dîner de Cons
Practicing French and want something hilarious to watch? Everyone spoke WAY too fast for me to understand, but with the subtitles on it was still hilarious.
The kind of music I like for concentrating.