The 3 public beaches in Mo'orea

For an island, it can be challenging to find a patch of sand.

There’s no doubt that the beaches in Mo’orea are the stuff dreams are made of. White sand, swaying coconut trees, water so turquoise it’s been famously described as ‘the blue that hurts the eyes’. Snorkel out into the crystal clear water to find coral castles in yellow and lavender, multi-coloured fish, giant clams and colourful spiral worms, rays and turtles and sharks.

What’s a little surprising to me is that there is so little beach access as you drive around the island. Much of the water is blocked off by private residences or businesses, and while there might be a big stretch of beautiful sand just beyond a rope, there’s often a very clear sign saying ‘tabu’ or ‘access interdit’… in other words, do not enter.

My husband, Martin, whose family has been here since 1990, has said it wasn’t always this way. Slowly, piece by piece, the shore is being closed off to locals and tourists alike. While there are still little patches where you can access shoreline, the best bet is often the three public beaches you can find around the island.

Temae

The closest to us, and my favourite, Temae can be found down a pothole-filled dirt road next to a wide coconut grove.

The beach is mixed sand and coral, sandier in some places than others, and there are colourful little fish that come say hi in the shallows.

The snorkelling near Temae is excellent. However, getting out to the snorkelling can sometimes be a challenge due to strong currents. I’ve found early morning around sunrise is the easiest time to get out to the patch of reef and while snorkelling there I’ve seen sharks, an octopus, rays, and a million different types of fish. I like the snorkelling here because it never gets super deep and you can always stand up if you need a little break.

Careful with your belongings here, as thieves can target the area. Keep valuables on your person, cars locked, and bikes close by.

I’ve previously written about Temae and the uncertain future of this little patch of paradise here.

Where to find it

Hours: I think this is the only beach that isn’t closed off after hours, however there may be security patrolling from the Sofitel.

Amenities: showers at the far end of the public beach, a toilet block near the parking

What’s nearby: There’s sometimes a little food truck, but I haven’t seen it for a while. You can use the current to float down to the Sofitel for a drink at the bar or a bite at the restaurant. The other two closest food options would be the restaurant at the airport (which I’ve previously written about here) and Motu Grill.

Plage Ta'ahiamanu

This is a big beach with lots of beautiful leafy trees giving shade on hot, sunny days. The view towards Magic Mountain and the Bay of Opunohu is wonderful to look at while floating in tranquil lagoon waters.

Plenty of people anchor their boats here, so it tends to be a pretty lively spot, with dinghys going back and forth. It’s also a popular spot for a birthday party or picnic, so sometimes there’s music (of various quality) blaring. I much prefer when it’s a group of older folk strumming their ukuleles!

The snorkelling here wasn’t particularly spectacular the last time I went with my mask, however I also didn’t go out very far. If you want to see some little corals and fish, there are plenty scattered about close to shore.

Where to find it.

Hours: 7:00am - 6:00pm, however the fence is pretty small, so you could probably jump it and check it out around these hours.

Amenities: showers, dedicated parking opposite, public toilet in the carpark, exercise equipment near the carpark.

What’s nearby: there are a good number of food and drink options within walking distance, including Lilikoi Garden Cafe, North Shore Poke and Smoothie Bar, and Matairi'i Méga la !

Plage Tiahura

This is probably my least favourite of the public beaches, just because there’s so little beach! Most of the land is manicured grass and coconut trees, with a paved wall and a set of stairs that leads to a small spit of sand before the water starts. There’s no shade on the sand and the snorkelling wasn’t that impressive. Still, it’s a beach in Mo’orea, so it’s still miles ahead of most of the beaches we have in Melbourne.

This beach is a great set off spot to go check out the two motus (islands) and the area dubbed ‘stingray city’ because all the stingrays congregate there looking for a feed from passing tour boats. The channel between the beach and the two islands is pretty busy with boats and jetskis, so a kayak or paddleboard might be a better bet than trying to swim it.

From Tiahura, looking towards the motu

Possibly the most frustrating thing about this beach is that it’s on the sunrise side of the island, but it closes at 5:30pm. It would be a beautiful place to sit and watch the changing colours of the sky, but unfortunately there’s a security guard installed by the gate.

Where to find it.

Hours: 7:00am - 5:30pm

Amenities: Parking, showers, toilets

What’s nearby: Restaurant Le Sunset is right next door at Hotel Hibiscus for a bite to eat or a cocktail. This is probably the most touristy part of the island, so there’s plenty of food options in both directions. I’ve previously written about eating at Le Lezard Jaune and Les Tipaniers here.

For paid subscribers: a work-in-progress comic

I started this comic to submit it to a literary journal, but unfortunately didn’t manage to finish it with colour in time (our cat died suddenly and my head wasn’t in the right space). I’m going to dust it off, finish it off, and try to submit it elsewhere, but in the meantime here’s the black and white version. Let me know what you think in the comments!

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