Opunohu Valley: A day trip itinerary

Featuring horses, rivers and most importantly... ice cream.

Mo’orea is known for its white sand beaches and majestic green mountains. But there’s magic to be found in the valleys where rivers create little waterfalls that tumble into basins perfect for a refreshing dip, where mape trees stretch their tall roots into loamy soil, where pine trees create soft beds of needles underfoot.

One valley that’s easy to access and explore (especially with a family) is Opunohu Valley. It feels like you’re stepping into another world: the road, shaded by pine trees, feels almost European, the surrounding mountains feel like Jurassic Park and you half expect a brontosaurus to be grazing in the distance.

It’s a nice change of pace after relaxing on the beach for a few days. Here are my suggestions for a day exploring the valley.

Start on the Route Des Ananas

…If your rental car agreement allows it! The Route Des Ananas (Pineapple Road) starts off paved but then gets a bit rough and bumpy. At first, it’s mostly homes, but when the road starts to twist and turn, the landscape gives way to pineapple fields and jungle. As you approach the end of the road, you’ll pass rivers flowing over rocks, and a spot where you can pull over for a photo in a pineapple field (somewhere around here). Don’t pick any fruits though!

Head up to the belvédère

This lookout at 240m gives a spectacular view down to the two bays separated by Mount Rotui. This is also where you can start a number of hikes, including the 3 Pines and 3 Coconuts trails. Be careful not to leave valuables in your car or scooter as thieves sometimes target this area.

Drive back down to the agricultural school

The Lycée Agricole is a high school with a focus on agricultural practices, but is also open to the public to explore. The shop at the front has gelato handmade from the fruits grown on site, as well as other goodies like jams, dried vanilla, and dried fruits. Walk behind the school buildings to explore the fields of pineapples, rows of guava and lemon trees, greenhouses filled with vanilla, even a sty full of pigs (you’ll smell this before you see it!).

There are some signs showing what’s growing and why which once formed a self-guided tour, but they’ve mostly fallen into disrepair.

Visit the marae

Hidden in the jungle is an archaeological site to explore and get a glimpse of what life was like for many Polynesians before Europeans arrived. The marae are stone platforms used for anything from ceremonies to sports contests. The signs dotted around the site are very informative and contain information about local animals, plants, ancient agricultural practices, and Polynesian culture.

Have a dip in the river

Feeling adventurous? In need of a cool off? There’s a spot just off the road where you can take a dip in the water that cascades from the mountains. The water is fresh and cool, and sometimes home to freshwater eels. Just remember to leave no trace and be respectful of nature. You can find it just next to a bridge with white handrails on either side (somewhere around here - you might need to do a bit of exploring to find it).

Say hi to the horses and cows

As you approach the main road, you’ll see fields of cows and horses on either side. Sometimes the horses will approach the fence to say hi!

Visit the museum

Once you reach the main road, you’ll find Te Fare Natura, the nature museum, like a giant outspread fan. I’ve heard it’s quite small considering the price, but the aquarium is spectacular.

Time for lunch

All this exploring will work up an appetite. You’ll be not far from a number of roulottes and restaurants where you can stop for a bite. Crêperie Cook Café has fun, Pirates of the Caribbean vibes, or Snack Rotui does a mix of Tahitian and Chinese.

What to pack for the day

• Sun protection - hat, sunscreen, long sleeves

• Mosquito repellent - something natural always recommended

• Good walking shoes - the ground is uneven and can get slippery with rain

• Water and snacks - obviously

• Swim suit and a towel - if you decide to take that dip, or want to stop at a beach along the way.

You can find a Google Map with the above places saved here.

June free download - Temae Beach

I’ve written about Temae beach and the public beaches in Mo’orea a lot as beaches and the lagoon are always a favourite subject to paint. This one is the view looking down from the belvedérè at the top of the hill. I’ve seen whales leaping from the water from this vantage point, and I always take a moment to slow down as I’m passing.

This month’s download for paid subscribers is a high res version of this painting which you can have professionally printed, or print at home. If you’d like access to this print, consider becoming a paid subscriber: