Baby-friendly Mo'orea
Some holiday ideas if you're travelling with a little one!
I had someone reach out to me and ask for recommendations for outings in Mo’orea with a 9-month-old baby. I’ve seen some conversations around the forums where I lurk about whether French Polynesia is an appropriate holiday destination with young kids. One absolute lunatic said no, take them to Disney World instead… I can’t think of anything more horrifying than trying to stand in a queue with a wriggly, impossible to contain toddler.
In my opinion? Yes! Many of the Tahitian islands are a super baby-friendly destination, and with some planning you can have a beautiful little beach holiday. We’ve been taking Auguste out and about with us since he was born, and while there’s always some logistical challenges when travelling with a toddler or baby, it’s all been very doable so far.
Here are some ideas and tips for travelling with a tiny one:
Pick a spot with nice beach access OR near a public beach
The easiest place by far to entertain our baby is a patch of sand. He eats it by the scoopful. The lagoon waters here are usually a nice warm temperature for a paddle, and there are plenty of spots where the shallows allow crawling, exploring and splashing. Scattered along the white sand are shells, pieces of coral, driftwood… it’s the world’s best playground. So when holidaying in French Polynesia, it makes sense to try to maximise your beach access.
Keep distance to the beach in mind when selecting where to stay. I previously wrote about the 3 public beaches on Mo’orea, all of which are fairly kid-friendly. The current at Temae can be a little strong, but we’ve taken the kids for a dip there many times without any issues.
Otherwise, a local pension or Air B’n’B with beach access might be a better option than any of the fancy resorts which have more of a honeymoon vibe. Personally, I found having a well-equipped kitchen a lifesaver when travelling with a baby.
Rent a car
It’s really challenging to get around with transport, so rent a car with a car seat for your stay in Mo’orea. This will allow you to move baby around easily, go shopping, do a leisurely tour of the island, and carry around the huge amount of stuff that travelling with a baby seems to require.
If you’re averse to driving, public transport is well-connected in Tahiti with a large number of buses servicing the island. There is a timetable, but I have no idea if the buses actually run to it.
In Mo’orea, however, you’ll be waiting at the bus stop for a long time. There is apparently a bus but I have no idea when it runs, if there’s a timetable, how to flag it down, and there’s no information about it online. Taxis are available but can get expensive.
Can you get away with no car in Mo’orea? Only if you’re within walking distance to enough amenities and places to eat. But with the heat and the hot sun, I wouldn’t be planning on walking around that much.
Travelling between the islands
Flying with Air Tahiti to Rurutu when Auguste was only 8-weeks-old was surprisingly easy. I think the Tahitians really love to see babies, so everyone was very understanding when he was a bit loud or fussy, and we got lots of smiles and silly faces. Families with small children were invited to board the aircraft first.
If you’re travelling between the Society Islands and have lots of baby stuff (e.g. pram, car seat) it might be worth looking into the fast ferry instead of a flight as domestic flight baggage is very limited.
Going out to eat & drink
Depending on the place, it’s been easy to cart Auguste out with us for lunch and dinner. A lot of places have catered for him with a high chair. Some places will have a kids menu but all were fine with me bringing out food I’d packed for him or giving him food to eat off our plates. The island is full of casual dining options that are family friendly, especially the roulottes (food trucks).
We’ve taken our baby to some of the hotels and resorts for a drink (Cook’s Hotel and the Manava). While everyone was super chill and understanding as my chaotic child tried to climb on tables and picked up random items off the floor to put in his mouth, the vibe wasn’t very family-oriented. Now he’s so mobile it’s not as relaxing to go out for a drink as it used to be!
Places to avoid
While I’ve never been to Bora Bora myself, my understanding is that it’s very much a honeymooners destination. Loud babies and toddlers might not feel as welcome in the resorts here as they do on the other islands.
The only other places I’ve found aren’t super toddler-friendly are any places with a lack of shade or shelter. When we went to visit Coco Beach, for example, we saw a couple with a very young baby. They were seated in direct sunlight and there was a lot of wind and the poor thing didn’t look very comfortable.
Some little outings for little legs
Visit Opunohu Valley - say hi to the horses, get a homemade gelato at the agricultural school, and find some marae (ancient stone platforms) close to the road. There are a few trails you can head up to get a glimpse of the jungle without doing a full on hike.
Take a boat to the Jardin du Corail - there’s a little island (motu) to explore along with a little inlet to splash in. You’ll need to bring everything you’d need for the day (including food and drinking water) as there’s nothing on this island except a little kitchenette. The snorkelling here is incredible but the current can be strong.
Hike up Magic Mountain - if you’re set up for hiking (e.g. can put your baby in a hiking pack) Magic Mountain is a steep but short option with mostly paved trail the whole way. The view from the top truly is magical.
Boat/lagoon tour - we had a couple bring their toddler on a whale watching tour. One parent did the swim while the other waited on the boat. The guides dropped a mic into the water so the little girl could listen to them sing… she looked like she had a great time!
Tropical Garden - take a stroll around the gardens where they grow vanilla and other fresh fruits and vegetables. There’s a short jungle walk which takes you to a river that you can dip your feet in.
Visit a waterfall - the hike to get there can be a little slippery, so this might be best for parents who are still baby-wearing, but at the end you get treated to an incredible sight and can have a dip in the pool at the bottom.
Packing for baby
A few essentials to consider bringing (along with all the stuff you’d usually need):
Slip, slop, slap! As an Australian, sun protection has been drilled into my head from a young age. We never go anywhere without a hat and sunscreen. Consider also bringing a long-sleeved swim suit and a packable UV tent for the beach.
Mosquito repellent - any inland activities will be mosquito territory. I use oil of lemon eucalyptus products (OLE) on the baby clothes which keeps them mostly at bay.
Baby carrier and/or travel pram - the sidewalk in Tahiti can be a bit rough and uneven. Mo’orea doesn’t have a sidewalk; you share the bike path right on the road. I’ve found to date that the ErgoBaby is more convenient for a young child, however now that he’s getting bigger and heavier, a light and foldable travel pram is becoming more and more useful.
Changing mat - you might find yourself changing a nappy in an odd place as there aren’t always change tables available in bathrooms.
Breathable clothes - it’s hot and humid most of the year, so our little guy mostly just hangs out in a nappy (or completely nude!). When we have to dress him up, we tend to focus on light, breathable materials. Occasionally in winter we’ll require long pants, socks and a light jumper in the evening.
Light sleeping layers - depending on the time of year you visit, it might get cool at night. The heaviest sleep sack we’ve used for Auguste in the winter was a 1.0 TOG (with a long sleeve/long pants suit), while in the summer he mostly sleeps in a nappy.
The supermarkets and pharmacies are generally well-equipped with things like formula, nappies, wet wipes, and baby food packets. When my sister came to visit with her 3-month-old, she packed enough for the first few days and then purchased the rest while here.
Have you done a beach holiday with a baby? How did you find the experience? Let me know in the comments below!
If you liked this article, check out…
Having a baby as an expat in Tahiti
Hello! I missed a newsletter the last two weeks as my life is now a crazy blur of feeding, burping, and trying to catch a few hours of sleep thanks to this little guy arriving:
Reflections on motherhood.
I didn’t always want to be a mother. It wasn’t a driving force or a lifelong dream like many women I know. From the outside, it looked like a lot of hard work and sacrifice; putting aside your own goals and dreams for a time or sometimes giving them up entirely.